Most popular tutorials from 2012

Most popular tutorials made during 2012

1. Expandable tote bag tutorial

2. Textured quilt sampler tutorial

3. iPad stand tutorial

4. Felt flowers embellished with sequins, beads and embroidery

5. French cuisine tea towel embroidery tutorial

Most visited tutorials last year but made before 2012

1. Charm pack tote bag tutorial

If you make this bag, please show us a picture on the bag’s Flickr group.

2. Free quilt patterns and tutorials

A compilation of some of the quilt tutorials I have made over the years.

3. Notebook cover tutorial

4. Disappearing 9 patch variation block with charm squares

5. iPad slipcase with pocket tutorial

Urban garden iPad carry case tutorial – part 2

In part 1 of this tutorial I created an improv patchwork flap for the ipad carry bag including a zippered pocket.

In part 2 I will finish the bag and attach the flap.

Materials are listed in part 1 of this tutorial.

Making the bag

Cut 2 fabric rectangles measuring 10 1/2 x 9 inches.

Then cut 2 heavy fusible interfacing panels measuring 10 x 8 1/2 inches.

Iron fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric following manufacturer’s instructions.

Now place both pieces with right sides facing together and stitch along 3 sides leaving the top open.

Turn inside out.

If using Peltex 71F it will be hard to turn the bag around. The peltex may crease but it can be easily ironed again.

Making the lining

Cut two rectangles the same size as the exterior of the bag.

 Adding the pockets

(Pockets are optional. I find that the larger pockets can get in the way.)

Cut two rectangles 8 1/2 in x 9 in.

Fold each rectangle along the longer side with the right side facing together.

Sew to make a tube.

Turn inside out.

Iron flat hiding the seam on the inside of the pocket.

Stitch along one long edge very close to the edge.

Then stitch again 1/4 inch from the edge.

Pin to one panel that will make the lining. Leave 1 1/2 from the top edge and pin to the fabric.

Leave 1/4 inch from the bottom and pin second tube.

Stitch along the bottom of each pocket. Then sew to make smaller pockets.

You can make the pockets into smaller pockets by sewing perpendicular lines as per picture above.

Now place both lining panels with right sides facing together and stitch on opposite sides only.

Attaching the lining to the bag

Place the outside bag inside the lining.

Align the top edges, pin and stitch along the edge leaving 1/4 in seam allowance.

Turn the bag inside out through the open side in the lining.

Now fold the linen open edges in by 1/4 in and top stitch very close to the edge.

Add the key ring

Cut a 4 in ribbon and stitch to the key ring.

Pin it to the edge of a pocket.

Then stitch to the pocket. Add a small button to decorate if you wish.


Cut a 1 strip  measuring 1 1/4 in x 43 in fabric for the strap, one piece of medium weight fusible interfacing measuring 3/4 in x 42 in and a piece of ribbon which is 46 inches long.

Place the interfacing in the middle of the strip with the sticky side up. Fold both sides of the strip in and place the piece of ribbon on top.

Iron well.

Pay special attention to the edges and fold the strip of fabric in to hide the raw edges.

After ironing topstitch along both edges of the ribbon.

Put the lobster clips through the ribbon as per photo and pin the ribbon back folding in the raw edges.

Attaching the strap

Cut 2 3 1/2 inches of ribbon.

Put ribbon through the D ring and pin to the sides of the bag as per picture folding the ribbon twice for strength. Stitch really well.

Attaching the flap

Pin the flap to one side of the bag and stitch well.

The iPad slipcase is done.

You’re done!

Urban garden iPad carry case tutorial – part 1

Materials and fabric needs

This list of materials is for both part 1 and 2 of this tutorial

I chose fabrics in complementary colours, purples and oranges.

  • Outside fabric: 2 panels measuring 10 1/2 x 9 inches
  • Lining: 2 panels measuring 10 1/2 x 9 inches
  • Fabric scraps in different colours and prints for the flap
  • Ribbon for the handles and key holder
  • Strap: 1 strip  measuring 1 1/4 in x 43 in
  • Pockets: 2 rectangles 8 1/2 in x 9 in
  • 8 in zipper for flap pocket
  • Key ring
  • 43 in ribbon for the strap


  • Bag: Heavy fusible interfacing Peltex 71F – 2 panels measuring 10 x 8 1/2 inches
  • Flap: Medium weight fusible interfacing: 1 rectangle measuring 9 1/2 x 10 1/2 cut to fit the flap shape
  • Handles: 1 strip measuring 3/4 in x 43 in



The flap is longer than the pattern’s length. When cutting the flap to shape, position the pointy end of the shape to align with the bottom of the patchwork rectangle leaving 1/4 in from the edge. If you made the patchwork rectangle at least 11 inches long, this will be the length of the flap.

The flap doesn’t use a magnetic closure because magnets aren’t good for electronic devices. The flap is quite big so this is not a problem.


Making the flap

Using improv patchwork make a rectangle measuring at least 11in wide x 10 in long.

Following is a sequence showing the way I did my improv patchwork flap.

Once you have made the improv patchwork piece iron well with the seams open so that it is not so bulky.

Then fold in half and  use the flap shape template (pdf) to cut to shape leaving 1/4 in allowance around the curvy sides.

Notice that the pattern is not aligned to the top. Place your pattern towards the bottom of the rectangle making sure the flap is 10 inches long after cutting.

Cut the medium weight fusible interfacing for the flap using the flap (see picture).

Iron to the flap as per manufacturer’s instructions.

Now cut a rectangle for the lining of the flap using the finished piece as template.

Zippered pocket

I added a zippered pocket to the flap.

Cut two pieces of medium weight fusible interfacing and iron to the top of the flap lining for strength.

Get your zipper, place it on the ironed interfacing and make a mark on each side. One mark will align with the zipper stopper and the other will align with the end of the zipper pull.

Trace a line to unite both ends. Then trace two lines 1/4 above and below the middle line. Then trace a rectangle on each end as per photo.

Cut through the middle line and triangle sides. Fold fabric back to make a seam and place the zipper through the “window” as per picture. Pin.

Stitch around  very close to the edge.

Now trim lining using the other piece as a template. Place both pieces with the right side of the fabric facing together and stitch around 3 sides.

Turn inside out.

Iron well. Turn top raw edges in and pin.

Stitch around the flap very close to the edge and then again at 1/4 in.


Next time I will make the bag and attach the flap.

Fabric manipulations: tucks

These fabric manipulations are part of a quilt. The quilt has 25 blocks. Each block is made out of a centre 5 inch square featuring some fabric texture such as pin tucks, smocking, shirring and the like.

If you are interested in fabric manipulations check out the 25 different fabric manipulations I did for my Textured quilt sampler.

Add your photos to the Textured quilt blocks Flickr pool.

Binding a quilt by machine

Binding a quilt is always time consuming. First you need to make the bias tape and then you have to finish it by hand. So I thought I’d try something different.

I cut the backing fabric 2 1/2 inches bigger than the top all around.

Then, after quilting the top I trimmed the batting to just 1/2 from the quilt top edge (see photo).

Then I cut the backing fabric 1 1/2 inches from the top edge (see photo).

Then get the backing fabric and fold it in twice. The binding will be about 3/8 in wide. Pin and continue until you reach a corner.

At the corner fold the fabric as per photo, ensuring the fold is in line with the batting edge.

Then fold in once.

And then fold again to hide the raw edge. And so on until you complete the whole binding.

Then top stitch the binding and your binding is done in a fraction of the time traditional binding takes.